Most homes in the U.S. have 15 amp circuit breakers with more than one wall socket on each breaker. at full power this PSU will draw more than 15 amps. You would need to rewire your home to use it. If you do that, it would be better to run a 220/240 volt line to your computer room.
This PSU may not be practical for home use, at least in the U.S.
The power cord shown in picture appears to be for the UK where 220 volts is the standard; not only is the plug different but the cord is not large enough to handle the amperage required by 120 volt circuit
Older homes sure, but most newer homes have 20 amp breakers. But, yes you would want to keep this power supply on its own breaker.
Honestly I don't seen the need for this. With power usage trending down in PC components, I just don't know what sort of "consumer" would need that much power. Maybe a dual processor workstation, but not most consumer desktop.
Actually, no. Most newer homes in the US still have 15A circuits. Knocks easily a couple of hundred of the materials cost of a house instead of having to use 12AWG wire and 20A outlets and switches.
20A certainly exists, it just is not common. You do see it in places like garages often though.
That cord looks like it is a 16AWG cord though, which means 10A max. I would NOT want to stuff >18A of power down that thing on 120V.
Canada too. 9 year old townhome, all 15a breakers and 14 AWG wiring. 12AWG/20A is a paid upgrade on new homes. In addition to higher cost the thicker wire is slightly harder to work with and fills electrical boxes a little more.
A dual processor workstation with dual GPUs and a dozen hard drives still would use less than half of this thing's output. About all I can think of that could use it would be a really big bitcoin mining rig.
You are right it is a UK power cord, which will include a 13A fuse. Breakers are typically 32A as we also have more than one socket per breaker. This PSU will allow you to keep your computer room warm and toasty in winter.
Many homes with 15A breakers can safely be swapped to 20A if the wiring is rated for 20A (which most quality wiring over the last 60 years is.)
Residential construction since the 80's often already has 20A breakers for kitchen and bathroom outlets. Chances are the same wiring is used throughout the house, but 15A breakers were used for bedrooms for "safety" to prevent people from running two space heaters or too many electronics in such a small room.
Simply put, check you wiring, and if it's 12 gauge (some 14g is good for 20A) you can replace the wall receptacle and the breaker with a 20A (good for 2250 watts)
If you have 16 gauge wiring such as some cheaper BX/Romex, your SOL. It's also obviously a problem if you rent since you'll need landlord approval to change anything.
Even if you don't need 2000W, this PSU can still safely provide ~1675W DC on a 15A circuit (they're good for 1750W) and I personally prefer not to push my PSU's above 80% load for efficiency and acoustic reasons...so for the most part, a 15A breaker is adequate for many users.
This is am amazing product. I'm surprised it's even being marketed. 166A @ 12V is amazing, that's more than most alternators and could even jumpstart a small car!
I pray you're not involved in construction but know you're the kind of guy who gives me all kinds of problems to fix after you're done.
I'm an electrician and maybe the US is different but while I've seen many things I've never seen 16 gauge wire for anything outside of an extension cable - which I have seen used to wire an addition. Older homes would be more likely to be wired in knob and tube than BX. Not many homes of any vintage use steel studs and few people are willing to pay double for an armoured cable that provides no benefit over a standard lumex/romex cable.
Also your 20A breaker is only good for 1920W not 2250W. If you used a 25A breaker you'd then be able to run 2400W without any issues while still only using a #12 wire. A standard 15A breaker is only good for 1440W.
I have no idea where you're pulling your numbers from but wow everything you've said is wrong.
Some key points... No #14 wiring in your house is rated for 20A. Breakers are only rated to hold 80% load.
How do you figure if someone made a few circuits 20A compatible that everything would be? To go from 14/2 to 12/2 you're looking at a price increase of about 30% on wire alone. To stop multiple space heaters or too many electronics? Are you kidding me? How's a 20A breaker solve anything? It will hold slightly longer than a 15A breaker if you plug in 2 1500W space heaters. Whoop Dee Doo.
Also please remember that general circuits are general circuits and this PSU needs special attention! Personally even if I had this PSU on a dedicated circuit I'd want it on a 25A circuit for overhead and for accessories (like a monitor) and I'd also want to be using an actual 20A NEMA cord otherwise you risk fire or other potentially serious complications. (melting power cords, overloaded breakers, etc etc)
Poik - I found your comments about breakers being rated for 80% of their load interesting anf found the following information:
UL Standard 489 states that circuit breakers must carry 100% of their continuous current rating indefinitely (without tripping) at 104° F (40° C) in free air. QOU circuit breakers should be applied, per the NEC, to carry 80% of their continuous current ratings in the intended enclosure. The continuous current rating is indicated on the handle of each circuit breaker.
I presume this is something unique to the US market? I am an electrical design engineer in the UK and spec MCB's (what we call them) in most the control systems I design and I have never heard of this before nor has it ever been mentioned in any manufacturers technical data.
I've a DC example for you; If I install 25A DC breakers for a telecoms rack, I know it will take 25A+ to trip it. If configuring / provisioning extra circuit packs / shelves on an existing rack, I simply must up the load rating of the breakers installed. Otherwise things can get 'trippy'. :)
Poik is right about the 80% load. Typically consumer product don't allow more then 12amps or 1400watts to be used on a 15 amp circuit.
We can talk UL, NEC, or electrical code standards all day but the fact as they don't normally make consumer product consumer more then 80% of an outlets rated power and the market has settled on this ages ago. I think this is buried somewhere in the NEC code about "100% capacity' means 80% load, but I don't remember.
Legacy reasons for this such as old electrical wiring and panels (fused) that can't handle these loads come into play. But there are also practical limits on how long the load can be sustained at max amperage due to the heat caused by the gauge and type of wiring, housings, and sockets.
We've run up against this issue in our products (firewalls) , even though they are in a data-center if they need 1500 or more watts then we put a C20 connector on the back of the system and supply a 20 amp (nema 5-20) to the customer in 120 volt areas.
I look at this not from an electrician side of things but from someone in the hardware/mfg chain who has to help build these products going out to various world markets.
It is amazing how much flak we get from product mgmt/marketing when they find out a customer won't buy one of our product because it means they would have to get a new circuit run.
The cord in the picture looks European. In the US, it might be possible to plug this using one of the alternative plugs for higher currents like NEMA 5-20 (or 14-30 or 14-50) instead of NEMA 5-15. I have some of the 5-20 (20A) plugs near my windows, intended for air conditioning units.
Although 110V may be safer, the 230V we have in Britain with normal sockets rated to deliver 13A is far preferable. 3kW kettles are commonplace in most homes, and even the cheapest kettles on sale are rated no lower than 2kW. How long do you wait to boil water for cups of coffee in America with those 800-900W kettles?
A cheap fan heater will be another at least 2kW item, with 3kW models widely available and certainly preferable if you need to quickly warm up a larger room. Washing machine? Yes, another 3kW device whilst its heating the cold water at the start of the cycle that plugs into our standard 13A socket.
3kW devices are quite common in Britain, so this 2000W output PSU would be perfectly fine here, because it will take under 2300W from the wall as it achieved a 80+ Platinum rating. The only real problem I foresee is cooling; not so much the computer but your home. The continuous 2kW+ of heat it produces at near full load means you'll be opening the windows even in winter.
it's a hybrid Schuko with support for both German and French grounding systems (the hole is for the french sockets, while the two contacts on the side are for german sockets).
I suppose anyone needing this much power will know this, but the standard NA wall socket can't deliver this much power. You'll have to run your computer in your kitchen with 20A plugs!
Unfortunately I fear a lot of idiots who think bigger is better will buy it anyway, discover they don't have the right plug and either splice a power cable to fit or replace the wall outlet without upgrading anything else; or worse also upgrade the breaker but leave the old 15A wiring in the wall connecting them. Hopefully those idiots will never actually hit 2kw and burn their houses down.
A lot of US homes still use fuses, I've seen plenty of people just slap in a 30A fuse into a plug wired for 15A. That's what you call a fire waiting to happen.
That is quite scary but true. A relative in the US is living in a 100 year old house. The standard sized doors seem to weigh 3x what a modern door weighs, the light switches are metallic, and the wiring is original. That relative's next door neighbor recently sold her house and the buyers had to put $$$$$ just into rewiring.
The rest of the world that got electricity decades after the US at least got to learn from some of the US's mistakes before creating their own standards. Sometimes being first to market has its drawbacks. Perhaps given another 20 years the AC vs DC debate would have gone the other way.
As for the fan, when you're pushing a 2000W machine it is not going to be silent. Just get the ridiculousness out of your mind. For 2000W I want something that is going to cool it reliably. There will be system temperature pressure from the other components in the case.
Yes, in the US this will require electrical planning. It would require at least a 20 amp breaker. It is not practical for most people. This is an expensive endeavor as you're not going to run this with no other electrical devices in the same vicinity.
Ian's machine could not run reliably and long term with that overclock with 1550 Watts on a 1600 PSU. Over time the PSU loses its ability to push the peak wattage reliably.
It drew 1550w from the wall, i.e. including PSU inefficiency. Assuming ~85% efficiency for the 80Plus Silver PSU used in that build, the 12v power draw was closer to 1300w. And that was for maximum CPU+GPU load, a.k.a. only-ever-happens-when-stress-tested load.
Yup. That is about 6700BTU, which means it won't be a small air conditioner either. If you vented the room right, a small fan and you could heat your entire house without turning on the furnace!
Forgot to add, really puts my hardcore machine in to perspective. My desktop with i5-3570@4GHz and GTX750 under full gaming load pulls ~140w from the wall with an 80+ bronze PSU. This thing could supply 15 of my computer almost.
Meanwhile, here I am on the other end, pulling well over 600W at the wall with an (almost, according to JG.com) 80plus gold PSU. Next round of upgrades will probably push into the >750W range, and big Maxwell even further (I run dual 670s atm)...
How is your power consumption not dropping? Intel processors use less generation over generation, Maxwell's power consumption is stupidly low...how are you going up?
Moving from LGA1155 to LGA2011-3, and GPUs aren't getting upgraded till GM200 (which I expect will be 250W a card). Then you have the overclocks, power for the fans, HDDs, watercooling pump, extra PCIe cards.
I was being facetious on it being a hardcore machine. It isn't super underpowered either.
As for mine, it uses a 6 pin PCIe connector as it is one of the GTX750 "overclock" cards, and I am running about a 50MHz core and 60MHz memory OC on top of the factory OC (I can't recall what that brings it up to).
At least based on my math using the IGP, it actually probably could still be powered by the PCIe bus alone as it seems to only be contributing about 70w from the wall under gaming load with the rest of the system running about 70w to. Though, I'd imagine under the right set of burn load, it might be able to pull more than the 75w the PCIe bus can provide (but right now, it looks like only in the 55w range under heavy gaming load if you factor in the PSU losses).
500 watts are dissipated in the power supply. The other 2000 watts are dissipated by the components of the computer itself. All the power going into the power supply is dissipated as heat except any light, sound or RF energy that leaves your house.
Yup, which actually makes my math worse as I forgot to include the bit of the power that the PSU itself is dissipating as heat, so figure up around 8000BTU of cooling required. Just a simple 1500w/5000BTU space heater is more than enough to turn my 150sq-ft bedroom (if the door is closed) about 10C warmer in just a matter of an hour in the middle of the winter. I can't imagine what it would be like having something like this sitting even in a large office running full tilt without some dedicated cooling for the room.
Erm, every work done is converted to heat energy, that's law of thermodynamics. Even sound energy is converted to heat eventually in the enviornment. The waste heat you mentioned is within the PSU, but the GPU, CPU, monitor, even LED lights will heat up the surrounding envrionment
Hello there. Noticed a bit of uncertainty regarding the PSU cord.
1. The PSU cord used there is a European type plug (non-UK) which is rated at maximum 13 Amps, seen though some on 20 Amps too on a 230 V supply. Basic calculus tells us 2000W divided by 230V give us a 8.69 Amps which is not too much for a normal house/socket,
3. Being an electrician myself for over a decade in UK now moved back home on the old continent would advise to not worry too much about the whole thing. If the house is properly designed and built (electrically speaking) the breakers will trip. In UK the sockets ring is on a 32 Amps breaker. As long as you are not running simultaneously everything (electric kettle, vacuum cleaner and other big consumers) you are ok. In Europe is different, There are still load of houses which are running the sockets on a 15-20Amps breaker so you can overload the circuit easily.
To cut the story short put yourself a dedicated circuit from the MCB board on a 32 Amps breaker using a 2.5 3core cable if you are in UK to be better safe than sorry and run your electronics/PC and this magnificent PSU. In Europe you can do something similar running a single line of the above mentioned cable on a 20Amp breaker and you have more than enough to run it.
The 1 million dollar question is: your electrical supply is big enough to take it? In UK the supply on normal houses/flats (2 phase systems) are 100/60 Amps rated based on meter main incomer which should be enough. In Europe is a bit tricky as there are quite a few households which have still a 25-30 Amps on meter main incomer.
Now let the lashings begun and sorry to had bother you with my babble.
I've a PSU thought / question for all you learned people here;
My buddy (rich, but usually a cheap barsteward) runs an ancient AMD 6-core (95W?) CPU, with a 980GTX, Sammy 840, and 1TB for storage - all on a 450W (likely high quality, forget the name) PSU.
No problems at all.
We noted the reviews the 980GTX drew 15W idle & 270W tortured. We added the 95W for the cpu, and knew we had enough for the rig. Why would you need more if driving only one of these newer cards?
He uses this to drive his 4k TV, and the only gaming done on it, was me for 'testing purposes'. :)
I only know one thing. Mains in the US is cheaper manufacturing stitched with "white thread". Capitalists have invested in the minimum funds to build it and then they give you milked to the absolute maximum in it.
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65 Comments
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Pork@III - Friday, January 30, 2015 - link
Next after that: Fusion power plant!bgelfand - Friday, January 30, 2015 - link
Most homes in the U.S. have 15 amp circuit breakers with more than one wall socket on each breaker. at full power this PSU will draw more than 15 amps. You would need to rewire your home to use it. If you do that, it would be better to run a 220/240 volt line to your computer room.This PSU may not be practical for home use, at least in the U.S.
The power cord shown in picture appears to be for the UK where 220 volts is the standard; not only is the plug different but the cord is not large enough to handle the amperage required by 120 volt circuit
danjw - Friday, January 30, 2015 - link
Older homes sure, but most newer homes have 20 amp breakers. But, yes you would want to keep this power supply on its own breaker.Honestly I don't seen the need for this. With power usage trending down in PC components, I just don't know what sort of "consumer" would need that much power. Maybe a dual processor workstation, but not most consumer desktop.
azazel1024 - Friday, January 30, 2015 - link
Actually, no. Most newer homes in the US still have 15A circuits. Knocks easily a couple of hundred of the materials cost of a house instead of having to use 12AWG wire and 20A outlets and switches.20A certainly exists, it just is not common. You do see it in places like garages often though.
That cord looks like it is a 16AWG cord though, which means 10A max. I would NOT want to stuff >18A of power down that thing on 120V.
toyotabedzrock - Monday, February 2, 2015 - link
Most outlets in the US are 15a as well. Unless one of the blades has a T shape it is a 15 amp plug.http://www.christmasdesigners.com/wp-content/uploa...
Pessimism - Thursday, February 5, 2015 - link
Canada too. 9 year old townhome, all 15a breakers and 14 AWG wiring. 12AWG/20A is a paid upgrade on new homes. In addition to higher cost the thicker wire is slightly harder to work with and fills electrical boxes a little more.JeffFlanagan - Monday, February 2, 2015 - link
A dual processor workstation with dual GPUs and a dozen hard drives still would use less than half of this thing's output. About all I can think of that could use it would be a really big bitcoin mining rig.Guspaz - Monday, February 2, 2015 - link
Heck, with the 980 using 165W, you'd be hard pressed to hit 50% utilization on this rig even with quad GPUs...BedfordTim - Friday, January 30, 2015 - link
You are right it is a UK power cord, which will include a 13A fuse. Breakers are typically 32A as we also have more than one socket per breaker. This PSU will allow you to keep your computer room warm and toasty in winter.rpg1966 - Friday, January 30, 2015 - link
Are we looking at the same picture? I'm seeing a Type F Euro plug.obsidian24776 - Saturday, January 31, 2015 - link
You maybe right, that's definitely not a UK plug. our plugs have three pins!Notmyusualid - Saturday, January 31, 2015 - link
+1. Not UK at all.close - Monday, February 2, 2015 - link
It's EU plug. Made for a standard 220V 16A plug.close - Monday, February 2, 2015 - link
Although lately they're pushing it up to 230-240V.fokka - Friday, January 30, 2015 - link
well, there's a whole world outside the US, large parts of which running on 240V with 16A breakers mostly (i think), soo...Samus - Saturday, January 31, 2015 - link
Many homes with 15A breakers can safely be swapped to 20A if the wiring is rated for 20A (which most quality wiring over the last 60 years is.)Residential construction since the 80's often already has 20A breakers for kitchen and bathroom outlets. Chances are the same wiring is used throughout the house, but 15A breakers were used for bedrooms for "safety" to prevent people from running two space heaters or too many electronics in such a small room.
Simply put, check you wiring, and if it's 12 gauge (some 14g is good for 20A) you can replace the wall receptacle and the breaker with a 20A (good for 2250 watts)
If you have 16 gauge wiring such as some cheaper BX/Romex, your SOL. It's also obviously a problem if you rent since you'll need landlord approval to change anything.
Even if you don't need 2000W, this PSU can still safely provide ~1675W DC on a 15A circuit (they're good for 1750W) and I personally prefer not to push my PSU's above 80% load for efficiency and acoustic reasons...so for the most part, a 15A breaker is adequate for many users.
This is am amazing product. I'm surprised it's even being marketed. 166A @ 12V is amazing, that's more than most alternators and could even jumpstart a small car!
juhatus - Saturday, January 31, 2015 - link
This is aka "quick guide burning your house". Its safe!Poik - Saturday, January 31, 2015 - link
I pray you're not involved in construction but know you're the kind of guy who gives me all kinds of problems to fix after you're done.I'm an electrician and maybe the US is different but while I've seen many things I've never seen 16 gauge wire for anything outside of an extension cable - which I have seen used to wire an addition. Older homes would be more likely to be wired in knob and tube than BX. Not many homes of any vintage use steel studs and few people are willing to pay double for an armoured cable that provides no benefit over a standard lumex/romex cable.
Also your 20A breaker is only good for 1920W not 2250W. If you used a 25A breaker you'd then be able to run 2400W without any issues while still only using a #12 wire. A standard 15A breaker is only good for 1440W.
I have no idea where you're pulling your numbers from but wow everything you've said is wrong.
Some key points...
No #14 wiring in your house is rated for 20A.
Breakers are only rated to hold 80% load.
How do you figure if someone made a few circuits 20A compatible that everything would be? To go from 14/2 to 12/2 you're looking at a price increase of about 30% on wire alone. To stop multiple space heaters or too many electronics? Are you kidding me? How's a 20A breaker solve anything? It will hold slightly longer than a 15A breaker if you plug in 2 1500W space heaters. Whoop Dee Doo.
Also please remember that general circuits are general circuits and this PSU needs special attention! Personally even if I had this PSU on a dedicated circuit I'd want it on a 25A circuit for overhead and for accessories (like a monitor) and I'd also want to be using an actual 20A NEMA cord otherwise you risk fire or other potentially serious complications. (melting power cords, overloaded breakers, etc etc)
Coup27 - Saturday, January 31, 2015 - link
Poik - I found your comments about breakers being rated for 80% of their load interesting anf found the following information:UL Standard 489 states that circuit breakers must carry 100% of their continuous current rating
indefinitely (without tripping) at 104° F (40° C) in free air. QOU circuit breakers should be applied, per the NEC, to carry 80% of their continuous current ratings in the intended enclosure. The continuous current rating is indicated on the handle of each circuit breaker.
I presume this is something unique to the US market? I am an electrical design engineer in the UK and spec MCB's (what we call them) in most the control systems I design and I have never heard of this before nor has it ever been mentioned in any manufacturers technical data.
Notmyusualid - Saturday, January 31, 2015 - link
That irked me too.I've a DC example for you; If I install 25A DC breakers for a telecoms rack, I know it will take 25A+ to trip it. If configuring / provisioning extra circuit packs / shelves on an existing rack, I simply must up the load rating of the breakers installed. Otherwise things can get 'trippy'. :)
doctoerobelix - Sunday, February 1, 2015 - link
Poik is right about the 80% load.Typically consumer product don't allow more then 12amps or 1400watts to be used on a 15 amp circuit.
We can talk UL, NEC, or electrical code standards all day but the fact as they don't normally make consumer product consumer more then 80% of an outlets rated power and the market has settled on this ages ago.
I think this is buried somewhere in the NEC code about "100% capacity' means 80% load, but I don't remember.
Legacy reasons for this such as old electrical wiring and panels (fused) that can't handle these loads come into play.
But there are also practical limits on how long the load can be sustained at max amperage due to the heat caused by the gauge and type of wiring, housings, and sockets.
We've run up against this issue in our products (firewalls) , even though they are in a data-center if they need 1500 or more watts then we put a C20 connector on the back of the system and supply a 20 amp (nema 5-20) to the customer in 120 volt areas.
I look at this not from an electrician side of things but from someone in the hardware/mfg chain who has to help build these products going out to various world markets.
It is amazing how much flak we get from product mgmt/marketing when they find out a customer won't buy one of our product because it means they would have to get a new circuit run.
Coup27 - Sunday, February 1, 2015 - link
All of this would be a non issue if the US used ~230v like nearly everybody else. :-pdananski - Saturday, January 31, 2015 - link
So does that mean you can't have electric heaters, vacuum cleaners or kettles that go over 2kw? Sounds a bit unlikely.tmarks11 - Saturday, January 31, 2015 - link
Find me a space heater that plugs into a 120V socket that is rated over 1500 watts.They don't exist!
Vacuum cleaners typically pull 8-11A (960-1320W). Never seen a residential vacuum cleaner any larger than that.
Kettles? Give me a break, most of those are more like 800-900W.
stephenbrooks - Saturday, January 31, 2015 - link
The cord in the picture looks European. In the US, it might be possible to plug this using one of the alternative plugs for higher currents like NEMA 5-20 (or 14-30 or 14-50) instead of NEMA 5-15. I have some of the 5-20 (20A) plugs near my windows, intended for air conditioning units.PrinceGaz - Saturday, January 31, 2015 - link
Although 110V may be safer, the 230V we have in Britain with normal sockets rated to deliver 13A is far preferable. 3kW kettles are commonplace in most homes, and even the cheapest kettles on sale are rated no lower than 2kW. How long do you wait to boil water for cups of coffee in America with those 800-900W kettles?A cheap fan heater will be another at least 2kW item, with 3kW models widely available and certainly preferable if you need to quickly warm up a larger room. Washing machine? Yes, another 3kW device whilst its heating the cold water at the start of the cycle that plugs into our standard 13A socket.
3kW devices are quite common in Britain, so this 2000W output PSU would be perfectly fine here, because it will take under 2300W from the wall as it achieved a 80+ Platinum rating. The only real problem I foresee is cooling; not so much the computer but your home. The continuous 2kW+ of heat it produces at near full load means you'll be opening the windows even in winter.
Alexvrb - Saturday, January 31, 2015 - link
Even a regular coffee maker doesn't take too long but my Keurig-compatible unit spits out coffee pretty damn quick. :Plothar98 - Saturday, January 31, 2015 - link
Spend 3 sec on Google and you find 1875w as a fairly common size for a hair dryer.Murloc - Sunday, February 1, 2015 - link
it's a hybrid Schuko with support for both German and French grounding systems (the hole is for the french sockets, while the two contacts on the side are for german sockets).Brett Howse - Friday, January 30, 2015 - link
I suppose anyone needing this much power will know this, but the standard NA wall socket can't deliver this much power. You'll have to run your computer in your kitchen with 20A plugs!DanNeely - Friday, January 30, 2015 - link
Unfortunately I fear a lot of idiots who think bigger is better will buy it anyway, discover they don't have the right plug and either splice a power cable to fit or replace the wall outlet without upgrading anything else; or worse also upgrade the breaker but leave the old 15A wiring in the wall connecting them. Hopefully those idiots will never actually hit 2kw and burn their houses down.Flunk - Friday, January 30, 2015 - link
A lot of US homes still use fuses, I've seen plenty of people just slap in a 30A fuse into a plug wired for 15A. That's what you call a fire waiting to happen.Alexvrb - Saturday, January 31, 2015 - link
How many amps is an old copper penny rated for vs a newer copper-plated zinc penny? :Ovalinor89 - Sunday, February 1, 2015 - link
Why would you put a penny when you can put a bullet?purerice - Sunday, February 1, 2015 - link
That is quite scary but true. A relative in the US is living in a 100 year old house. The standard sized doors seem to weigh 3x what a modern door weighs, the light switches are metallic, and the wiring is original. That relative's next door neighbor recently sold her house and the buyers had to put $$$$$ just into rewiring.The rest of the world that got electricity decades after the US at least got to learn from some of the US's mistakes before creating their own standards. Sometimes being first to market has its drawbacks. Perhaps given another 20 years the AC vs DC debate would have gone the other way.
BedfordTim - Friday, January 30, 2015 - link
As bgelfand pointed out this is a UK unit for a 220V 13A supply.AnnihilatorX - Monday, February 2, 2015 - link
No, it's a EU plug, I have seen the exact same plug in Belgium. EU and UK do use the same voltageeanazag - Friday, January 30, 2015 - link
As for the fan, when you're pushing a 2000W machine it is not going to be silent. Just get the ridiculousness out of your mind. For 2000W I want something that is going to cool it reliably. There will be system temperature pressure from the other components in the case.Yes, in the US this will require electrical planning. It would require at least a 20 amp breaker. It is not practical for most people. This is an expensive endeavor as you're not going to run this with no other electrical devices in the same vicinity.
eanazag - Friday, January 30, 2015 - link
This is for dual 4K monitor gaming.eanazag - Friday, January 30, 2015 - link
Ian's machine could not run reliably and long term with that overclock with 1550 Watts on a 1600 PSU. Over time the PSU loses its ability to push the peak wattage reliably.Gigaplex - Friday, January 30, 2015 - link
That's why he helped design this 2kW behemoth. 1.6kW wasn't enough for his needs.tim851 - Saturday, January 31, 2015 - link
It drew 1550w from the wall, i.e. including PSU inefficiency. Assuming ~85% efficiency for the 80Plus Silver PSU used in that build, the 12v power draw was closer to 1300w. And that was for maximum CPU+GPU load, a.k.a. only-ever-happens-when-stress-tested load.ipcamper77 - Friday, January 30, 2015 - link
Most space heaters in the US are only 1500W, you are going to need an air conditioner to cool the room this is used in.azazel1024 - Friday, January 30, 2015 - link
Yup. That is about 6700BTU, which means it won't be a small air conditioner either. If you vented the room right, a small fan and you could heat your entire house without turning on the furnace!azazel1024 - Friday, January 30, 2015 - link
Forgot to add, really puts my hardcore machine in to perspective. My desktop with i5-3570@4GHz and GTX750 under full gaming load pulls ~140w from the wall with an 80+ bronze PSU. This thing could supply 15 of my computer almost.ZeDestructor - Friday, January 30, 2015 - link
Meanwhile, here I am on the other end, pulling well over 600W at the wall with an (almost, according to JG.com) 80plus gold PSU. Next round of upgrades will probably push into the >750W range, and big Maxwell even further (I run dual 670s atm)...fluxtatic - Saturday, January 31, 2015 - link
How is your power consumption not dropping? Intel processors use less generation over generation, Maxwell's power consumption is stupidly low...how are you going up?ZeDestructor - Saturday, January 31, 2015 - link
Moving from LGA1155 to LGA2011-3, and GPUs aren't getting upgraded till GM200 (which I expect will be 250W a card). Then you have the overclocks, power for the fans, HDDs, watercooling pump, extra PCIe cards.Gigaplex - Friday, January 30, 2015 - link
GTX750 isn't hardcore. Isn't it powered by the PCIE bus alone with no extra power connectors?azazel1024 - Monday, February 2, 2015 - link
I was being facetious on it being a hardcore machine. It isn't super underpowered either.As for mine, it uses a 6 pin PCIe connector as it is one of the GTX750 "overclock" cards, and I am running about a 50MHz core and 60MHz memory OC on top of the factory OC (I can't recall what that brings it up to).
At least based on my math using the IGP, it actually probably could still be powered by the PCIe bus alone as it seems to only be contributing about 70w from the wall under gaming load with the rest of the system running about 70w to. Though, I'd imagine under the right set of burn load, it might be able to pull more than the 75w the PCIe bus can provide (but right now, it looks like only in the 55w range under heavy gaming load if you factor in the PSU losses).
Death666Angel - Friday, January 30, 2015 - link
"really puts my hardcore machine in to perspective -> GTX750 " I see wut u did thar!tmarks11 - Saturday, January 31, 2015 - link
not completely true. The 2000W power supply is not putting out 2000W of heat.It is rated at 80% efficient at full load. Which means that 20% is going into heat, the rest is power.
To make it trickier, the 2000W is rated power output, not input. 2000W/0.8 = 2500W (21 A!). Heat = 2500*0.2 = 500W.
500W = 1706 BTU/hr. Still enough to make your room toasty in the summer.
As you drop down from full loading, the heat output will drop less than linearly, and will never exceed 500W. That is the nature of the beast.
anoldnewb - Saturday, January 31, 2015 - link
500 watts are dissipated in the power supply. The other 2000 watts are dissipated by the components of the computer itself. All the power going into the power supply is dissipated as heat except any light, sound or RF energy that leaves your house.azazel1024 - Monday, February 2, 2015 - link
Yup, which actually makes my math worse as I forgot to include the bit of the power that the PSU itself is dissipating as heat, so figure up around 8000BTU of cooling required. Just a simple 1500w/5000BTU space heater is more than enough to turn my 150sq-ft bedroom (if the door is closed) about 10C warmer in just a matter of an hour in the middle of the winter. I can't imagine what it would be like having something like this sitting even in a large office running full tilt without some dedicated cooling for the room.AnnihilatorX - Monday, February 2, 2015 - link
Erm, every work done is converted to heat energy, that's law of thermodynamics. Even sound energy is converted to heat eventually in the enviornment. The waste heat you mentioned is within the PSU, but the GPU, CPU, monitor, even LED lights will heat up the surrounding envrionmentbroetchenrackete - Friday, January 30, 2015 - link
You mentioned the Price Tag but no Price itself. Its at £349.99 (UK) / 369,90€ (GER).hiperboreus - Saturday, January 31, 2015 - link
Hello there. Noticed a bit of uncertainty regarding the PSU cord.1. The PSU cord used there is a European type plug (non-UK) which is rated at maximum 13 Amps, seen though some on 20 Amps too on a 230 V supply. Basic calculus tells us 2000W divided by 230V give us a 8.69 Amps which is not too much for a normal house/socket,
2, The UK type cord is normally 3 pin type rated at 13 Amps. So 13A by 230V means 2990W.
More on AC type connectors can be found here http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/AC_power_plugs_and_so...
3. Being an electrician myself for over a decade in UK now moved back home on the old continent would advise to not worry too much about the whole thing. If the house is properly designed and built (electrically speaking) the breakers will trip. In UK the sockets ring is on a 32 Amps breaker. As long as you are not running simultaneously everything (electric kettle, vacuum cleaner and other big consumers) you are ok.
In Europe is different, There are still load of houses which are running the sockets on a 15-20Amps breaker so you can overload the circuit easily.
To cut the story short put yourself a dedicated circuit from the MCB board on a 32 Amps breaker using a 2.5 3core cable if you are in UK to be better safe than sorry and run your electronics/PC and this magnificent PSU.
In Europe you can do something similar running a single line of the above mentioned cable on a 20Amp breaker and you have more than enough to run it.
The 1 million dollar question is:
your electrical supply is big enough to take it?
In UK the supply on normal houses/flats (2 phase systems) are 100/60 Amps rated based on meter main incomer which should be enough.
In Europe is a bit tricky as there are quite a few households which have still a 25-30 Amps on meter main incomer.
Now let the lashings begun and sorry to had bother you with my babble.
Notmyusualid - Saturday, January 31, 2015 - link
I've a PSU thought / question for all you learned people here;My buddy (rich, but usually a cheap barsteward) runs an ancient AMD 6-core (95W?) CPU, with a 980GTX, Sammy 840, and 1TB for storage - all on a 450W (likely high quality, forget the name) PSU.
No problems at all.
We noted the reviews the 980GTX drew 15W idle & 270W tortured. We added the 95W for the cpu, and knew we had enough for the rig. Why would you need more if driving only one of these newer cards?
He uses this to drive his 4k TV, and the only gaming done on it, was me for 'testing purposes'. :)
What a waste, I know, I know.
Ice-Tea - Monday, February 2, 2015 - link
You failed to factor in MoBo, power coversion efficiencyy, RAM, HDD, ODD, USB and fan consumption. You're running it awfully close.Pork@III - Sunday, February 1, 2015 - link
I only know one thing. Mains in the US is cheaper manufacturing stitched with "white thread". Capitalists have invested in the minimum funds to build it and then they give you milked to the absolute maximum in it.purerice - Sunday, February 1, 2015 - link
... the same capitalists that gave us personal computers in the first place you mean?mapesdhs - Sunday, February 1, 2015 - link
Every time there's a high-end PSU review, we have a discussion on the limitations of
the US power system. Sheesh, upgrade already... ;)
Ian.
Thorburn - Monday, February 2, 2015 - link
Worlds first consumer 2000w PSU? I think not. Not even close.From 2007....
http://www.legitreviews.com/sneak-peak-ultra-produ...
toyotabedzrock - Monday, February 2, 2015 - link
You could weld with this thing. I'm not sure a single 12v rail is sensible at this power level.Jason323 - Friday, March 11, 2016 - link
I would rather combine two psu using connectpsu or something