Alternatives

As if all the options we've already given you aren't enough, there are so many choices available when you have such a large budget that we felt it would be beneficial to put together a quick list of alternatives. We've broken them down by component type, but otherwise we have made no attempt to clearly separate the configurations that work together. For example, if you're interested in getting an SLI motherboard, you won't want to purchase a couple of ATI graphics cards to go with it - unless you simply want to run the graphics cards as individual units rather than in CrossFire mode.

Alternative Processors
Brand Component Price
AMD AMD Athlon 64 X2 (AM2) 4000+ - 2.0GHz 2x1024KB Windsor $196
AMD AMD Athlon 64 X2 (AM2) 4200+ - 2.2GHz 2x512KB Windsor $204
AMD AMD Athlon 64 X2 (AM2) 5000+ - 2.6GHz 2x512KB Windsor (Backordered!) $364
Intel Intel Core 2 Duo E6400 - 2.13GHz 2MB Shared L2 $220
Intel Intel Core 2 Duo E6700 - 2.67GHz 4MB Shared L2 $502

Alternative Motherboards
Brand Component Price
AMD MSI K9A Platinum - ATI CrossFire Xpress 3200 + ATI SB600 AM2 $136
AMD Asus M2R32-MVP - ATI CrossFire Xpress 3200 + ATI SB600 AM2 $148
AMD Foxconn C51XEM2AA - nForce 590 SLI AM2 $177
AMD Asus Crosshair - nForce 590 SLI AM2 $235
Intel ASUS P5B-E - Intel P965 775 $164
Intel DFI Infinity 975X - Intel 975X 775 $185
Intel Abit AW9D - Intel 975X 775 $209
Intel Abit AW9D-MAX - Intel 975X 775 $260

Alternative Graphics Cards
Brand Component Price
ATI 2 x Sapphire Radeon X1900GT 256MB $404
NVIDIA 2 x XFX GeForce 7900GS 256MB DDR3 RoHS $404
NVIDIA EVGA GeForce 7950GX2 1GB $500
NVIDIA 2 x EVGA GeForce 7950GT KO 512MB $580

Alternative Memory
Type Component Price
DDR2 G.Skill 2GB (2x1GB) DDR2-800 model F2-6400CL4D-2GBPK $265
DDR2 OCZ Platinum 2GB (2x1GB) DDR2-800 model OCZ2P8002GK $280
DDR2 WinTec AMP-X 2GB (2x1GB) DDR2-800 model 3AXT6400C4-2048K $295
DDR2 Corsair XMS2 2GB (2x1GB) DDR2-800 model TWIN2X2048-6400C4 $300
DDR2 Super Talent 2GB (2x1GB) DDR2-800 model T800UX2GC4 $310
DDR2 Patriot 2GB (2x1GB) DDR2-800 model PDC22G6400LLK $310
DDR2 Kingston HyperX 2GB (2x1GB) DDR2-800 model KHX6400D2LLK2 $330

Alternative Hard Drives
Type Component Price
SATA2 Seagate 3.0Gbps 250GB 7200RPM 16MB Barracuda 7200.10 $75
SATA2 Western Digital 3.0Gbps 320GB 7200RPM 16MB Caviar SE16 $100
SATA Western Digital 1.5Gbps 400GB 7200RPM 16MB Caviar SE16 $135
SATA2 Seagate 3.0Gbps 400GB 7200RPM 16MB Barracuda 7200.10 $154
SATA2 Maxtor 3.0Gbps 500GB 7200RPM 16MB MaXLine Pro 500 $209
SATA2 Maxtor 3.0Gbps 500GB 7200RPM 16MB DiamondMax 11 $219
SATA Western Digital 1.5Gbps 150GB 10000RPM 16MB Raptor $219
SATA2 Seagate 3.0Gbps 500GB 7200RPM 16MB Barracuda 7200.10 $220
SATA2 Seagate 3.0Gbps 750GB 7200RPM 16MB Barracuda 7200.10 $356

Depending on where you live in the world, it may be easier to get some of these alternative recommendations over the components we listed earlier. We feel confident that all of these components are very high quality and will work well in any high-end computer. In some cases, the differences are going to be very slight, and we didn't bother listing all of the various GPU manufacturers as by and large a 7900 GTX from company A is going to be nearly the same as a 7900 GTX from company B.

Hopefully it's pretty clear by now that there are a lot of different choices you could make and still end up with a very good high-end computing system. We would also be remiss if we didn't mention the fact that one more point in favor of ATI graphics cards right now is their support for Folding@Home's new GPU accelerated client. Even if you have no interest in Folding@Home, we have to commend ATI for their efforts, and we hope to see additional applications in the future leverage the floating-point number crunching power offered by today's GPUs.

Conclusion

Some companies like to advocate the "one size fits all" approach, whether it be for clothing, computers, transportation, or just about any other product. We here at AnandTech are strong believers in individualization, as what works best for one person may be overkill or insufficient for another. We have made an effort in this buyers guide to address many of the configuration options that are available for anyone looking to build a new computer. Even with everything we've said here, however, there are still many areas that we only glossed over. Naturally, if you have any questions, feel free to send them our way or post them to our comments section.

If you're still confused after all of the information we've unloaded, or if you're uncertain whether or not you should upgrade right now, discretion is usually the best course of action. Do some more research, ask some questions, and remember that something better/faster/cheaper is always just another month away. Today is not the perfect time to upgrade or buy a high-end computer system; neither was last month, and next month won't be either - at least not for everyone. The best time to upgrade is when you are no longer happy with your computer... or perhaps just after winning the lottery. Many of us still have computers that are over two years old that we use on a regular basis, and while they may not be the fastest systems on the planet, for a lot of tasks they are perfectly adequate.

Display, Case and Peripherals
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  • limiter - Tuesday, October 10, 2006 - link

    I read an article on Toms or HardOCP (that I can't find now) which said they had problems getting one of their DVD drives to work on a P965 ASUS board, but a lot of what I've read comes from Newegg item comments like these for the ASUS P5B Deluxe:

    quote:

    BenQ & Pioneer DVD-RW IDE drives can't record from Windows on this board for me. Strange really. They show as DVD-RW drives, and work fine in other machines, but when a blank DVD/CD is inserted, Windows changes the drive description to DVD-ROM, and you can't record.


    quote:

    the primary IDE has problems. It won't let my DVD burner burn DVDs. It will burn CDs but not DVDs. When I try to burn a DVD, some burning software sends the data but the burner never does anything. Other burning software reports an error. I have spent 5 days trying to fix this annoying problem. For a long time I thought it was software or Windows related. I finally re-installed Windows, changed to a Plextor DVD burner, changed the cable, etc. Still doesn't work. I am now convinced that this is a motherboard problem. zevo thinks this is a JMicron IDE controller problem and that makes sense to me.


    For the ASUS P5W DH Deluxe

    quote:

    For me, the Intel IDE controller is VERY slow when using a known-working DVD drive. It is stuck in PIO mode.


    I've read some other forum comments about DVD problems on ASUS P965 mobos, but I can't find them right now. If I run across them again I will update. I'm not saying this is a bad motherboard or ASUS is a bad company, and any of this could be user error, unrelated bad hardware, or have been corrected by bios updates. I guess I just get the impression there are more people having issues with memory and DVD burners than usual. Nothing I think needs a too much attention. I am happy to see memory was tested for the article, I look forward to the future article mentioned above on this topic!
  • JarredWalton - Tuesday, October 10, 2006 - link

    Of course, all the boards are using 975X in this guide and not P965. The problem likely stems from the fact that none of the P965 boards have an Intel IDE controller, since ICH8 doesn't provide one. (Stupid... but that's a topic for another day.) Most boards use third-party controllers can order to offer IDE support, and some of the initial BIOS revisions were very flaky in memory and IDE support. Beyond that, I can't think of anything specific that would be causing issues for people.
  • JarredWalton - Monday, October 9, 2006 - link

    The RAM and motherboard combinations have all been tested (as far as I'm aware) by Gary Key and/or Wesley Fink. Those choices were made with extensive input from Wes and Gary. That's the major sticking point in terms of compatibility - and P965 memory compatibility has improved a lot with the latest BIOS revisions. However, it should be noted that we strongly recommend setting memory timings (and voltages) manually for most high-end enthusiast systems. The SPD settings should work and allow the systems to POST, but they are not optimal by any means. Hope that helps - Gary or Wes might be able to chime in with specific testing results for the RAM+Mobo, although I think there's an article in the works that will cover that aspect regardless.
  • Missing Ghost - Monday, October 9, 2006 - link

    Is there really a good reason to choose AM2 over 939? I think the motherboards for 939 are more mature.
  • JarredWalton - Monday, October 9, 2006 - link

    If you're looking to use older components (like existing DDR RAM), 939 is still fine. That's what I still use for my personal system (mostly because I don't have the time to get a full Core 2 Duo up and running, and I likely wouldn't notice the difference in performance for the apps I run most). If you're building a full new system, there's no reason to get 939 anymore.

    Think DDR2 prices are bad? Take a look at quality DDR - it's no better, and you won't get 1:1 overclocks to DDR-667 or higher with any RAM. $250 or so will get you DDR2-800 that can run faster than any 1:1 overclock on AM2 will need. There will also be no future platforms for DDR (other than budget offerings from maybe SiS or VIA).

    Anyway, AM2 launched in a state that was nearly as mature as 939, and it has quickly matched it overall, if not exceeded it. The prices are about the same, AM2 typically hold a 5% advantage in performance over 939 (for equivalent CPU and RAM speeds), and hopefully AMD will do quad cores on AM2 in the future - 939 is now EOL'ed, and DDR is in a similar boat. I believe the last production runs of DDR will complete in early 2007, and then pretty much everything will shift to DDR2 or later RAM production.
  • mostlyprudent - Monday, October 9, 2006 - link

    Wow! You really covered your bases and made it clear that there are still plenty of options out there to choose from. Nicely done, although it leaves little room for discussion.

    One Guide I would love to see in the future is one that attempts to find the best balance between noise and performance. There are plenty of sites that talk about silencing a PC, but they tend to cripple performance at some level. Anandtech has looked at some components in this respect (i.e. video cards and cases), but it would be great to see the whole package put together. Maybe it's in the context of the best all-purpose PC for those who cannot afford a separate rig for gaming, one for family use, one for an HTPC, a media server, etc.
  • MadBoris - Monday, October 9, 2006 - link

    Glad you guys offered so many alternatives through the guide. I like a reference of what the current best components are in each field, but I end up choosing certain best components. So the alternatives, throughout the guide, were very nice.

    Thanks for these buyers guides, it will really help alot of people out with core 2 duo upgrades and upcoming next gen GPU's. Thanks alot guys.
  • Baked - Monday, October 9, 2006 - link

    What's with the Ultra High End system w/o a Seasonic or PCP&C PSU?

    And no loving for the Thermalright Ultra-120? Unlike other companies, Thermalright knows how to innovate instead of just blowing up their products. You can get the Ultra-120 w/ a Yate Loon D12L for less than $55 and it'll perform better if not on par w/ the Scythe Infinity, AND it'll stay attached to the motherboard. You expect people to buy your $65 but you can't come up w/ a better mounting system other than the one used by Intel's retail HSF? Poleeeeeeeese.
  • JarredWalton - Monday, October 9, 2006 - link

    See above comment - the Kingwin has been upgraded to a Seasonic S12-500 now. I should have figured the PSU police would come knocking if I didn't spend at least $100 on a "high-end" PSU. Honestly, if you don't plan on overclocking and adding a lot of extras, the vast majority of 500-600W PSUs will work fine. Some are quieter, some are more efficient, but most will handle a moderately high-end configuration.

    BTW, I'm typing this on a system configured with:
    ASUS A8R32-MVP
    Athlon X2 3800+ OC'ed to 2.2GHz (4600+ equivalent)
    X1900 XT + X1900 CF GPUs
    2x1024MB OCZ DDR-500 3-3-3-8-1T
    320GB WD HDD
    160GB Samsung HDD (secondary storage)
    Pioneer DVR-110D
    Antec SLK-3000B case
    ...And a Kingwin 600W PSU

    I bought the Kingwin several months ago on a whim - I needed a PSU fast after an Antec 400W unit failed, and the local shops didn't have a great selection. Note that the Antec PSU was *not* used in this system config! LOL - CrossFire on an Antec? Not for me!

    The system is not extremely quiet... but then that's almost impossible with dual X1900 cards. Full load the system stays well under 500W, and I haven't had any issues with stability whatsoever. Upgrading the system to socket AM2 and 7900GTO cards would drop power requirements, so I still fully stand by the original choice of the 600W Kingwin as a reasonable "budget high-end" PSU. Will it fail gracefully if I exceed the limits of the PSU? No idea - I don't intend to find out either. :)
  • yyrkoon - Tuesday, October 10, 2006 - link

    Its not about the brand name Jarred, you can find a reasonable PCP&C PSU, hell, you'll pay more just because of SLI 'certification'. Anyhow, sometimes, someone may want a longer hold time, or want rock solid rails, or possibly better efficiency (although seasonic may have PCP&C beat here, depends on models).

    You mentioned something about re-branding, however im not so sure thats completely true. 99.9% of all PSUs probably are made in one of 12 plants in China, HOWEVER, parts, support, , and specifications are not always interchangeable.

    I didnt see how much your KINGWIN PSU was, but something that hits me as more than slightly funny, is why spend 260 us on a motherboard, 300 + on a CPU, 250-300 on memory, and get cheap on the PSU ? I think you'll find that PCP&C PSUs are more efficient, have a much longer hold time, and should exibit a much more solid rail supply. Lets not forget that PCP&C PSUs are rated at 40C, and not 25C like alot of common PSUs on the market. (not everyone lives where its cold, or even cool.)*shrug*

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