Motherboard Tray

The motherboard tray inside the P160 is also an interesting piece of hardware. Yes, you can safely assume that it is removable, but not like the traditional "slide-out-the-back" or "detach-off-the-side" trays. It is held onto the case by a small piece of aluminum with a thumbscrew.

To remove the tray, we remove this aluminum piece and slide the tray towards the front of the case by about an inch. We can then safely pull it off and out through the left side of the chassis. This way, the only hardware removed is the motherboard and the add-on cards attached to it. All of the wiring connected to the motherboard will, of course, need to be disconnected and the add-on cards unscrewed from the expansion slots first.

Once the tray has been removed, we can mount the motherboard by using screw-in stand-offs included with the P160. The tray supports ATX and microATX boards and has a removeable I/O backplate for various port layouts.


Cooling Hardware Case Construction and Security
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  • expostfacto - Monday, February 14, 2005 - link

    I have this case. Overall, I'm happy with it. Remember that it is aluminum and soft. I have only stripped out one screw hole so far...
  • Live - Monday, February 14, 2005 - link

    Smn198 is right on. The decibel graphs should be logarithmic. I'm sure excel can do that rather easily. Much easier for people to compare and its about bloody time the manufacturers start to get pressured about the unbearable sound levels (Hello Intel :D)
  • puddnhead - Monday, February 14, 2005 - link

    I think #38 makes a VERY good suggestion for the reviewers here to implement. The results graphs would be much more meaningful.
  • Filibuster - Monday, February 14, 2005 - link

    #33 I can't say it any better. I love mine.

    From looking at the P180 stuff I feel it will cost quite a bit more. The P160 was about $160 or so when it launched if I recall correctly and the P180 does have a few more features. Personally I like the look of the P160 better but I'm glad they are doing it different though so there is a real choice to be made.
  • smn198 - Monday, February 14, 2005 - link

    Good review as always, this time with a good case too ;)

    Can I make one suggestion though? As decibels are logrithmic, can the graphs be shown as such. e.g. 60dB should be twice the size of 50db.
  • bob661 - Monday, February 14, 2005 - link

    The Aspire X-Alien case that is the same internally as this Antec for $73 at newegg.
  • puddnhead - Monday, February 14, 2005 - link

    I'm with #18, to me this case is what you get when you start with a Sonata and

    1) change from steel black to silver Al
    2) add another 5 1/4 bay
    3) move the front audio/firewire/usb ports to top from middle
    4) add LED temp display
    5) move the second 120mm fan mount to in front of HDs, from behind.
    6) add a mb tray
    7) ditch the doofy "Antec" airholes

    so far so good, but then you

    8) subtract the Sonata's 380s Truepower PSU
    9) add $50 to the price (assuming you don't mind the hassle of the frequent $30 Sonata rebates)

    $50 less for a case with PSU makes up for 1-7 IMO :)
  • crimsonson - Monday, February 14, 2005 - link

    Nice case. I am still using my Lian-LI PC 60 [a classic].

    I am looking for a compareable case but with 5 5"bays on the front instead of 4. Anybody have a sugestion.

  • TR0J - Sunday, February 13, 2005 - link

    Great case, very happy. My 2c:
    1. Removing the front bexel: it is very easy to snap the top two plastic plugs holding the bezel to the fron of the case. Be careful.
    2. The firewire and USB cables from the top panel can be confusing to tell apart.
    3. I broke the lock on the window panel jsut testing it. Not using it anyway, but very breakable.
    4. Mine came with the 2nd fan. I thought it wasn't going to so I bought one.
  • huges84 - Sunday, February 13, 2005 - link

    I have this case, I've had it for 2 months now and I love it. CompUSA has had sales on Antec cases recently. I got mine there. I helped a friend build his first PC recently and we used a Antec Solution series case that I can also say was top notch.

    The things I was looking for in a case:
    -NO FRONT DOOR
    -NO STUPID ASS PRE-MOD
    -Front firewire, USB, audio. Temp would be nice.
    -Plenty of room for expansion
    -Matching bezels for drives
    -Adequate cooling. Air filter would be nice.

    Guess what? P-160 fit the bill perfectly!

    A few things not mentioned in the article, even though they've been said here:

    -Rubber mounts for the fan
    -Removable filter in the front
    -Front bezel seems a little flimsy at first, but it is pretty rugged
    -The included fan only has a molex connector
    -There is an optional windowed side panel
    -There are 3 blue LEDs in the chrome openings in the front of the case. They shine from the top onto the bottom, where the light bounces of the 45 degree surface towards you. It looks really sharp. Check out pictures on Newegg or somewhere. Also, they can be disabled by simply disconnecting a fan-type connector if you don't like them.

    I only have the one case fan installed, and with the following set-up I run 33C while running folding@home and 37C after 12 hours of Prime95:
    A64 3000+ (skt 939) overclocked to 2400 MHz
    ASUS A8N-SLI Deluxe (NF4)
    Overclocked GeForce 6600GT
    One ATA133 Harddrive

    So you really only need the second fan if you have more than one harddrive, or you extreme overclock, or you have a P4. The case is so quiet that I set my CPU fan to run full blast all the time, because I can't really hear the difference between the speeds unless I have the side off.

    The only thing I don't like is that the fan doesn't have a normal fan connector. My motherboard has fan controll capabilities that I want to take advantage of. But since everything is so quiet I am going to buy a fan for the front and while I'm at it I will replace the rear one.

    Oh, and as was said, the connections for the firewire port are a pain in the ass, but that's because there is no standard and my motherboard manual did not give good info as to what pin was what.

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